Text by Miguel Vieira
Photos by Miguel Vieira & Elisabeth Teixeira
While for most the single joy of the holidays revolves around family, for clothing enthusiasts there are other reasons to rejoice. While bright sunny days provide you with much-needed vitamin D and an overall mood boost, summery attires are somewhat lacklustre in overall complexity. As any menswear enthusiast can attest, cold weather is where personal style and one’s know-how on fashion fundamentals truly shine: playing around with layers, textures and accessories are core techniques one must master to overcome the season in style. However, nothing worthwhile has ever come easily: despite the unlimited potential, Winter also poses several style challenges.
First, all of the above-mentioned techniques take years to learn and properly perfect with a personal twist, requiring extensive experimentation to understand what works best for your body and aesthetic. Second, the unstable nature of Winter days which alternate between freezing cold, heavy rain or snow, or a combination of all, makes it extremely hard to prepare your wardrobe in advance to cover all possibilities. The nuances in dressing for these different climate conditions, don’t necessarily allow for a smooth transition, meaning you will often prepare for the worst-case scenario through functional outerwear and footwear.
This conjecture brings us to the focus of this brief write-up: what makes for the perfect Winter jacket? Allow me to make a brief disclaimer: this pressing question is only an issue for those who find joy in the act of dressing according to their values, adapting to the weather and the occasion to convey their personality and identity at all times; for everyone else, the standard issue Gore-Tex parka is your best friend. For better or worse, I belong to the former, meaning that my Winter outerwear ranges from double-breasted cashmere overcoats to fend off the cold, to lightweight technical raincoats to keep dry when commuting. It’s easy to see where this is heading right?
Assuming I don’t want to throw on a shapeless, bulky, waterproof parka, none of the current alternatives in my wardrobe answers the seasonal needs, despite all being considered core staples of men’s fashion. And here enters Norwegian Rain. The latest deliveries from their AW24 collection are a game-changer for all looking to find multi-purpose outerwear that doesn’t compromise on tailoring principles and distinctive aesthetics. As a long-time owner of a few NR jackets, it’s immediately visible how much tweaking and development they have done over the years to address minor details and make the amazing even better. The beauty of these jackets is the ability to combine some of the most high-tech fabrics and finishings, with T-Michael’s unique tailoring vision, resulting in something truly special and unique in today’s market. Waterproof, windproof, and warm, but still with a tailored approach that is flattering and exclusive.
This time around, I got to try the Padded Harmattan Cropped and NR Duffel, both unisex styles with a slightly edgier aesthetic than the designs I currently own and had the chance to get hands-on earlier this year
The NR Duffel is a technical raincoat inspired by traditional duffel coats, with military-inspired details and a slightly oversized fit that makes it extremely comfortable and functional. The army green hopsack fabric is surprisingly versatile for outerwear, easily adapting to a wide range of colors. The functional look is not purely for aesthetics, as it features 2 large flap pockets on the front that also function as side pockets, while the front straps allow for a tighter or more relaxed closure. As usual, the jacket features several removable rain-focused elements such as the adjustable hood and storm flap, but I particularly loved the contrasting black shearling collar for added warmth and comfort. While I embraced the more military aspect of the duffel, pairing it with heavy-duty pleated pants and a brown color palette, I can easily picture it being worn over a suit for a contemporary, super cool look.
The Harmattan cropped is a whole different story. This short padded jacket is extremely warm and reminiscent of Japanese designs, with an oversized fit and a trademark hood with incorporated storm flaps. The unique drape and back-positioned side pockets make for a uniquely looking jacket, further emphasized by the padded storm flaps that look superb when undone, falling on the shoulders. Staying true to its origins, I paired it with Japanese-inspired pleated flannel pants and invertedly layered turtleneck and half-zip jumper. This particular version is a technical marvel, being extremely lightweight and warm at the same time, and a welcome short alternative when you don’t need a long coat.
Last but not least, the final raincoat of the series was Arctic Homme—Norwegian Rain’s warmest style to date and one of the most visually striking. As the name implies, Arctic is not only fully waterproof (as all things NR) but also manages to bring cosiness and warmth to the mix due to the shearling-lined interior and removable collar. The materialization of these often paradoxical concepts – waterproofing and cold proofing – is superbly achieved with the Arctic, through high-tech padding technology that maintains the coat lightweight and breathable, in usual Norwegian Rain fashion. It’s a technical marvel in itself, and the perfect alternative to throw over a tailored wool suit when the temperature drops and rain is on the forecast. While there are more classic alternatives in Norwegian Rain’s range, personally I love the contrast of breaking down a tailored ensemble with a functional raincoat that you can easily throw on or off as needed. It’s a whole new level of the fashion meets function conversation, impeccably conducted by the distinctive masterminds behind the project: Alexander Helle and T-Michael.
About guest writer: Miguel Vieira
Civil Engineer turned Fashion Marketeer, Stylist, Copywriter and part time photographer, Miguel has been working with fashion brands and companies for over a decade, including Norwegian Rain. Based in Porto, Portugal, he’s keen on menswear history and writes about it on his blog Beyond Fabric.”